1/18

Post by **mad_manx** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:38 pm

Same with me, raw or painted will be great; I've sent my address already. Any idea what diecast(s) the 'big & little' tires you have came from, by any chance?

Bronze's IP's are really great....I got 2 of them.

Post by **Madmaxing** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:12 pm

Jay, to expand on the IP, here at the "auto factory" the area where the IP is built up is referred to as a "hole". Now, imagine you work in maintenance and you hear a female supervisor on the radio say "I need a Toolmaker in my IP hole". Remember your company policy on diversity before you respond.

Hey, I couldn't make this stuff up.

Steve

Post by **draknoir2** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:27 pm

Quote: Originally posted by mad_manx on 10 August 2007

Same with me, raw or painted will be great; I've sent my address already. Any idea what diecast(s) the 'big & little' tires you have came from, by any chance?

Bronze's IP's are really great....I got 2 of them.

They came off an AC Cobra, I believe. I'll be casting copies in urethane in the not too distant future. That'll save buying an entire model, if you can hold out for a bit.

Post by **Bronze21** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:57 pm

IP...does that mean "InPut" hole? Baaaad....I'm sooo fired! Haha!

Post by **Madmaxing** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:31 pm

All I have to say is that I don't think she put any thought into her request, and I also think it is very undiverse of her to make such a statement.

So does anyone have any thoughts on the polymer clay idea? Basically it gives the moldability of clay with the durability of a finished plastic piece when done.

Where I work we have glass bead, as it is called, for sandblasting. It might be the same as the silica someone else mentioned. I know it is silica based so don't breathe around it. Anyways it leaves a wonderfully smooth finish. Great for removing paint from a diecast model.

Steve

Post by **mad_manx** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 3:41 pm

Quote: Originally posted by Madmaxing on 11 August 2007

It might be the same as the silica someone else mentioned. I know it is silica based so don't breathe around it. Anyways it leaves a wonderfully smooth finish. Great for removing paint from a diecast model.

Steve

Just for the record, it wasn't silica I mentioned; aluminum oxide is a lot safer than silica(safer for the user). I also didn't mention glass bead because it's usually a lot more expensive to use.....and it may not be as effective as the aluminum media. Glass bead might yield a good results on other stuff, but in my experience the aluminum oxide is more aggressive when it comes to the baked-on paint used by most diecast carmakers.

My friend with the blast cabinet I use actually has 2 separate ones; one for aluminum oxide, and one for glass bead. Anything steel is generally done with the aluminum media, while aluminum is generally done with glass bead because it's gentler on the surface.

Post by **draknoir2** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 1:58 am

Quote: Originally posted by Madmaxing on 11 August 2007

So does anyone have any thoughts on the polymer clay idea? Basically it gives the moldability of clay with the durability of a finished plastic piece when done.

Steve

There are a number of manufacturers... I'm going to use something called FIMO for the Scott injector hat master [to make molds off of], but Super Sculpey is good too. Ultra fine Milliput is excellent, and air hardens. "Green Stuff" two part epoxy putty is good, but there's a time limit.

Post by **draknoir2** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 4:08 am

Took a lot of grinding and filing, but I got the two extra sets done. Hopefully they are satisfactory... did my best with a screwed up mold.

I'll finish the hubs tomorrow, and mail them out to you guys Monday.

Keith

Post by **Chase Bansi** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 8:10 am

Hey Drak, those wheels look great. I'd be interested in a set if you make any extras.

Also I've got my hands on some 1:18 sawed off shotguns and machetes if anyone is interested. I bought a lot of a dozen of each and only need a few. I can scan them and post a pic the middle of next week (wed). I may have a line on gerry cans too!

Post by **draknoir2** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 6:18 pm

Hi Chase,

Thanks... they could be better. The mold self destructed during the casting process. I'll eventualy make a new one, but right now I need the rubber to make other parts, like a bonnet, blower, and scoop. The stuff is expensive... special hi-temp silicone from GE, so I'm really trying to conserve. I already had 5 pounds go bad on me, and I'm down to my last one.

I do have some "factory seconds" that might be usable, if you're interested. There's a little dip in the rim that can be restored with a dab of putty and some sanding.

Keith